In August 2008, we were invited to inspect the newly completed, empty detention facilities the Department of Immigration had built on Christmas Island. Refugee Coordinator Dr Graham Thom and National Director Claire Mallinson later described them as "harsh and soulless" places that "look and feel like a prison".

In early December 2009, Amnesty International staff were again granted rare access to the detention facilities. Dr Graham Thom, Louise Allen and Jessica Baird saw the detention centre, home to hundreds of mostly single men. They also visited the construction camp, where famlies, women and unaccompanied minors are housed.

The visit confirmed that the government’s policy of processing asylum seekers offshore is still both unviable and inhumane.

"We wanted to see how people were actually being housed in those places," said Graham Thom. "Now there are more than 1,100 people detained on Christmas Island, were are concerned, particularly about how women and unaccompanied children are faring in such harsh and over-crowded conditions."

During their visit, Graham, Louise and Jessica talked to asylum seekers. They heard traumatic stories of torture and persecution they suffered in their homelands, and of perilous boat journeys across mountainous oceans.

They witnessed the arrival of the Oceanic Viking, the customs vessel at the centre of a showdown between Indonesia and Australia in November over the fate of more than 70 Sri Lankan asylum seekers. They saw some of those asylum seekers arriving on the island, finally able to exercise at least some of their rights under international law.

"It was not until the second group came off the barge [transported from Oceanic Viking] that I was struck by the enormity of this moment for these men, women and children arriving in Australia for the first time. Some looked lost, some looked overwhelmed, some looked relieved, but one man I saw could not contain the happiness and relief he felt. He was smiling and thanking the staff on the dock."

Jessica Baird

And they met immigration staff, teachers and medical professionals committed to helping asylum seekers and struggling to improve conditions at detention facilities. They heard about the strain that increasing numbers of asylum seekers, immigration officials, detention centre staff and visitors are placing on infrastructure - the hospital, school, water supply, sanitation and roads.

One positive aspect of the trip was the visit to the local school. Graham, Louise and Jessica delivered hundreds of cards, gifts and kites provided by Amnesty International school groups to both asylum seekers and local children.

Between 65 and 120 asylum seeker children join classes with about 370 local students at the Christmas Island school, which caters for children from preschool to year 12. A number of these children have no family members with them - mostly boys aged 15 to 17.

Since returning home, Graham, Louise and Jessica have been talking with politicians, media and Department of Immigration officials, highlighting our concerns about the dire situation for asylum seekers in overcrowded, harsh and remote detention facilities.

The government has recently announced multi million dollar plans to expand the detention centre and improve the island’s infrastructure. Graham Thom said that though an improvement in conditions for asylum seekers is welcome, as long as they continue to be detained on Christmas Island, Australia iseffectively punishing them for arriving by boat instead of plane.

"That contravenes our international obligations under the Refugee Convention," said Graham Thom.

"We will continue to urge the government to pursue more humane treatment of asylum seekers."

Refugee coordinator Dr Graham Thom, government relations adviser Louise Allen and media and public affairs coordinator Jessica Baird visited Christmas Island on 7-11 December 2009. They would like to thank the Department of Immigration for the wide access it provided to all its facilities during the visit.

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